The guidelines identified herein are very basic.  They offer a framework from which you can build with steel.  Depending on your house plans, your project may require additional details not covered.

Prepare for the Job

The same tools used for non-loadbearing construction are also required for load-bearing walls.  A few additional tools are required for cutting the thicker metal used for bearing walls.   A chopsaw with an abrasive bit or a pair of electric shears will allow you to make the necessary cuts while on the job site.  Even with these tools, it will be to your advantage to develop a detailed cut list and have as much of the material as possible precut.  All studs should be precut to length.  In addition, some rollformers will precut header materials, jackstuds and even trimmer studs.

Design Considerations

The frame of a house provides its structural integrity.  This is what enables a home to withstand the forces of nature.  In designing your home, careful review and use of the Prescriptive Method is a must.  In 1997, these standards were adopted into the building codes under the CABO One- and Two-Family Dwelling Code. As a result, areas recognizing CABO should be able to greatly reduce the need for engineering calculations for most wall and floor assemblies.

Layout Considerations

Stick framing usually requires an “in-line” framing technique.  The top and bottom track are not typically load bearing; thus studs, joists and trusses must be aligned in order to transfer the loads to the member below.  Some engineers will design a top track so that the builder will not have to use in-line framing.  However, this method uses more steel.  Depending on the design, it may be necessary to transfer the load to the next member.

When marking the track for studs and wall openings, it is necessary to take into account the joist and truss layout in order to assure proper alignment of members.  Studs, except where required at a wall opening or corner, should all face the same direction.  Aside from structural reasons, this will also make the installation of batt insulation much easier.

Typical Load-Bearing Wall Assembly

The most common way to build a load-bearing wall is to pre-assemble the wall on the deck as described below:

	Use a black felt-tip marker to mark the locations of the layout studs (usually 24 in. on center)
	Use a red felt-tip marker to mark the location of opening.
	Your layout will be more accurate if you mark both tracks at the same time.
	Where necessary, tracks should be spliced by inserting a section of stud into the track as shown in figure.
	Twist studs into the tracks and clamp them with your locking C-clamps.
	Next, tap the track and studs together and fasten the studs to the tracks.  It is important to get the top and bottom of the studs tight as possible.
	Fastening details are similar to non-load bearing walls except load bearing call for one #8 minimum, self-drilling, low-profile screw on each flange.
	Fasten all studs on one side of the wall, then flip the wall to fasten the other side.  If you are using plywood or other exterior sheathing, it is best to fasten the interior side o the studs first and then flip the wall and connect the exterior side to the track.
	Where members are placed right next to each other they can create a cavity that can not be easily accessed, so you will need to pre-insulate in these areas or come back later and spray foam into them.

For additional information on wall framing, check out the Shear Wall Design Guide (97  kb pdf document) and the Builders’ Stud Guide (537kb pdf document).